Delving deep into Colombian Specialty Coffee: Geisha Variety
TRACEABILITY
Producer: Carlos Fernando Cerquera Tapiero
Product: Geisha Washed
Farm: La Esperanza
Origin: Colombia/ Huila/ Pitalito/ Filo Chulurco
Altitude: 1780m
Varietal: Geisha
Main harvest: November - December
Mitaca harvest: June - August
Maintenance
Weeds and plants that can compete with the coffee trees, hinder their growth, or impede the movement of pickers are pruned every three months.
Additionally, the base of the coffee trees is cleared before fertilization to ensure that the fertilizer is applied more effectively.
Regular pruning is carried out, removing old or unproductive branches to stimulate new growth, improve air circulation, and reduce the risk of fungal diseases. These measures result in healthier plants and better development of the coffee cherries.
For pest and disease control, visual inspections are performed periodically, and damaged, dry, or fallen cherries are promptly collected to prevent the spread of diseases and pests and maintain the health of the trees.
Finally, complementary crops such as plantain, avocado, and yuca are planted between the coffee trees.
These crops provide natural shade, help retain soil moisture, and enrich the soil with organic matter to improve fertility, while also offering additional sources of income for the farmers.
Fertilization
Soil analyses are conducted to assess the needs of the plantation, ensuring precise and effective fertilization.
Fertilization is carried out every three months, using 50% chemical fertilizers and 50% organic fertilizers.
Chemical fertilizers often contain a balanced mix of macronutrients such as nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K), as well as micronutrients like zinc, boron, and magnesium, adjusted to the coffee tree’s growth stage.
These blends are tailored based on the results of soil studies to support the trees' development, maximize the quality of the coffee cherries, and prevent any nutritional deficiencies.
The organic component of the fertilization process primarily comes from compost made from leftover coffee pulp generated during the pulping process.
If the compost is insufficient, humic material sourced from external suppliers is used to complement the organic fertilization efforts.
These natural fertilizers enrich the soil with organic matter, improve its structure, and promote long-term fertility, while also supporting sustainable agricultural practices.
To optimize nutrient absorption, the fertilization schedule is aligned with the rainy season.
Rainfall is crucial for dissolving nutrients and transporting them through the soil to the roots, ensuring they efficiently reach the entire plant.
Harvest
The main harvest takes place between November and December, while a smaller harvest, known as "mitaca," occurs between June and August.
The harvesting activities employ approximately 6 people, mostly neighbors and family members.
Their experience allows them to recognize the ideal ripe color for each coffee variety. Each time a new picker joins the team, they receive a brief training to ensure they understand the appropriate type and ripeness level of coffee cherries to be picked.
The Geisha variety is harvested every two to three weeks when the coffee cherries reach a scarlet color.
After harvesting, the coffee cherries undergo a flotation process to remove impurities such as branches, leaves, or defective beans, ensuring a clean surface on the cherries.
Fermentation process
After sorting, the coffee is placed in plastic bags for 12 hours, then the pulp of the coffee cherry is removed, and the beans are again placed in plastic bags, completely sealed, and left for 24 hours, finally, the beans are washed twice after processing.
Infrastructure equipment
Parabolic dryers, plastic bags, and a pulper machine.
Drying method
The coffee is dried in parabolic dryers or on a drying patio, depending on the weather, for about 8 to 17 days, during which the beans are moved 3 times a day.
Storage method
The coffee beans are packed in burlap sacks placed on wooden pallets in a dedicated storage room owned by the coffee farmer.
The storage period ranges from 8 days to a maximum of 15 days.
Producer Story
Carlos Fernando Cerquera Tapiero, 31, from Huila, Colombia, began his journey in the coffee industry 10 years ago, influenced by his older brother.
His initial roles involved tasks such as moving coffee bags and other related activities.
Through dedication and passion, Carlos learned coffee selection and roasting.
After more than a year of meticulous preparation, he became a professional coffee cupper.
Carlos's expertise as a cupper gained recognition when he represented Colombia at the World Coffee Championship in Milan, Italy, in 2021.
Competing against 27 national champions, he secured sixth place, a significant achievement for someone his age.
Beyond cupping, Carlos is also a coffee producer, managing his farm in Pitalito.
He, along with a friend and investor, established "Dragg Coffee," a project dedicated to producing high-quality coffee and providing cupping training to young people in the region.
Carlos acknowledges the crucial role of coffee producers in the industry and their unwavering dedication.
His vision for the coffee sector is clear and committed, aiming to inspire and educate the next generation of coffee professionals.
Geisha Coffee Variety Information
Geisha coffee is an indigenous variety originating from the Gori Gesha forest in the Gesha region of Ethiopia, classified as native because it has naturally evolved for generations in this unique environment.
In the 1930s, seedlings and seeds were collected for study at research centers in Tanzania and Kenya, where the variety was first registered under the name Geisha (VC-496).
In 1953, several samples of the Geisha variety were introduced into the collection of the Tropical Agricultural Research and Higher Education Center (CATIE) in Costa Rica, one of which was labeled Geisha T-2722. This sample is considered the origin of the variety currently recognized worldwide as Geisha.
Trials of this variety were conducted in various parts of Costa Rica to assess its agronomic performance, particularly its resistance to coffee leaf rust. However, after years of research, it was found that Geisha T-2722 had much lower productivity than commercial varieties, leading to a loss of interest in its cultivation.
Geisha coffee was introduced to Panama in the 1960s.
Initially intended for reforestation, small plots were established on farms in the Boquete district, Chiriquí province, in the northwest of the country. One of the farms where this variety was planted would play a crucial role in the history of Geisha: Hacienda La Esmeralda.
Hacienda La Esmeralda was acquired by the Peterson family in 1964 in Palmira, Boquete, Chiriquí.
In 1973, coffee plantations were established over a large area of the farm, and in 1987, a processing plant was built for direct coffee processing at the hacienda.
In 1996, the Peterson family acquired another farm in the nearby Jaramillo area, where they discovered coffee trees resistant to rust. Their curiosity led them to isolate this variety, reviving the forgotten Geisha coffee.
This coffee achieved global recognition in 2004 when Hacienda La Esmeralda won the Best of Panama competition, scoring an exceptional 94.5 points and setting a record price of $21.00 per pound.
This event marked a groundbreaking moment in coffee history.
From that moment on, coffee producers from various regions sought to acquire seeds of this variety for their farms.
However, the initial enthusiasm was tempered by the realization that Geisha cultivation required significant effort due to the fragility of the trees, their low yield, and the difficulty of maintaining quality.
In Colombia, Geisha first arrived in 2010 at the La Esperanza farm in Trujillo, Valle del Cauca department.
Over time, its cultivation spread to various regions, including Antioquia, Tolima, Santander, Nariño, Cauca, and Huila departments.
Geisha coffee trees are characterized by their tall, slender growth, reaching heights of 3 to 5 meters when fully mature.
Their leaves are elongated and dark green.
They have wide internodal spacing on their branches, which causes the coffee cherries to be more spread out along the branch.
Geisha cherries are medium to large in size and turn crimson red when ripe.
The flowers are small, white, and fragrant.
This variety tends to thrive at high altitudes, typically above 1,700 meters above sea level.
Regions like Cauca, Huila, and Nariño are particularly well-suited for its cultivation.
The terms "Gesha" and "Geisha" are used interchangeably due to the lack of an established translation from the Ethiopian dialect into English.
The coffee was first registered as "Geisha" in 1936, and producers have maintained this spelling for decades.
